Eagle Racing has done it again! They have just released a new R31 front mount chassis converts existing R31 chassis to a front motor chassis. The new trend in RC Drift chassis manufacturers seem to be a front mounted motor. Most manufacturers have already implemented this into their drift chassis line-ups. Eagle has now followed suit with this new R31 front motor conversion kit. The new R31 GRT conversion kit will be compatible with the Street Jam OTA-R31 or the TEH-R31 chassis. The new R31 GRT chassis conversion will add better styling and rigidity to the existing chassis. Eagle continues to expand their ever growing GRT line-up, pretty soon there will be a GRT equivalent for every chassis.
The new GRT front motor mount position is the new trend in drifting performance. This would be especially good upgrade for any TEH-R31 owner. The new R31 GRT front motor mount chassis utilizes a new cut-outs from the original R31 GRT chassis. All of these parts will be available separately so no need to upgrade the entire package if you already have compatible Eagle Racing parts.
Eagle Racing R31 GRT Front Mount Chassis Conversion Kit
- Part Number: R31-16FM-GO or R31-16FM-LBL
- Graphite GRT main chassis
- Graphite GRT top plate for stability and rigidity
- Graphite GRT damper stays
- Graphite GRT battery holder
- Graphite GRT front bumper plate
- Aluminum Front motor mount
- Aluminum Pulleys
- Aluminum Solid Axle
- Aluminum braces, supports, mounting posts, washers
- New belts
- Multiple lateral battery mounting positions
- Large dual layer rear diffuser
- Includes hex screws for fastening
- Graphite battery holder
- and many more….
Approximate MSRP: ¥16800JPY
Source: Eagle Racing
Ordered and on the way!!! =)
Nice William! Let us know how it is 🙂
phew! glad I ordered mine early. It’s already sold out. Quite a debut.
Yeap, quite a popular chassis! Especially good for TEH-R31 chassis owners
congratulations, do not forget to complete the review ..
So, I just finished completing the kit. I can’t express enough how bad the instructions are. I managed to snap one of the tensionors brackets which is made out of the black CF that Eagle provides. I noticed that the quality was quite poor and they managed to drill too close to the edge. Luckily, I was able to work around the issue and super glue the pieces together and fasten the CF bracket on the flatter side. Also, I had noticed that this is not a direct conversion and requires you to use the longer ball end connector(something I’m not used to.) I believe MST FS01D has the same damper setup if I remember right, so I took that idea and it worked great.
Another disappointing factor is the adjust-ability of the damper position. The fronts are limited by the Spur and also the steering angle that this car generates. The rear has a lot more freedom to adjust but generally I like my dampers straight up. So currently I have both my dampers stood straight up.
Anyways, out of the box CS setting ~55% is really controllable and fun to drive. Do note that I use D-Like MSF springs all the way around and only adjust the springs by preload thus far. I’m still trying to figure out how to put on the stealth body mounts the chassis. I just wanted to report back on my findings. Once I get the mounts on and body, I’ll be able to tune this. But until then, it’s time to get some sleep and go at it again tomorrow. =)
Thank you William, this is very insightful. Eagle assembly instructions are a bit weak, but should be manageable with kit assembling experience. All front motor designed chassis do have the inherited problem of space up front. Its one of the major shortfalls of the front motor design. Let us know how the rest of it progresses for you.
wow, it was a little disappointing. I was so hesitant to purchase this conversion. but I still would monitor progress .. if you have more time, you’re probably willing to make a video of drifting with this conversion … thanks
making a video will be a challenge. My standards are a bit high and I want to make sure it’s the best representation of this chassis as possible.
Yes your right, it’s a little disappointing. But that’s to be expected with the EA chassis really. Once you get past those issues like any other chassis would, then it’s one banging chassis for your dollar. At the moment I have it setup for my liking and am ready to grow with this chassis. Eagle needs to get their replacement parts out quick so I can replace the tensioner I broke. I have more pictures to share, they will be posted in the the gallery. Look out for the Stealth body mount set up there.
Video. Watch orange Subaru.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ik35D_nwTPs
good video and also first in youtube (EA R31-16FM).
what do you feel after using this conversion than the previous conversion? whether at long drift, when ‘Manji’ (sorry if wrong pronunciation), switback, etc good? beg peeled completely, hehehe 🙂
Thanks. Long sweepers (as I call it) are great, maintaining the angle is easy with the included CS gears. Manji’s are alot easier as well as the front nose weight helps stabilize the switch back for sure.@ 56% CS, this car is really fun to drive. I’d like to bump up the percentage a bit more to get a better feel for the car with monster angle. If and when you get a chance to run a front motor, you should feel that rear’s almost no effect except for controlling how fast your rear end comes out. Majority of your control is all in front, this includes the motor weight, CS FDR, steering geometry(Ackerman and Toe), camber, caster, and spring load. Take all of that into consideration when you setup this chassis.
As a comparison, my friend has an MS-01D Pro (no FM Conversion) and I though that was a really good chassis. This R31-FM conversion is right up there. Given the the fact that this chassis has a lot disappointments with build quality, setup, and instructions… If you can over come those issues, you’ll have no problem keeping up with the high end chassis.
By no means I would say this is the best chassis money can buy. I would still buy a FS-01D.
hope you can make a difference from the previous video.thx